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Post by axenige on Nov 6, 2008 20:19:54 GMT 1
erm today I looked at the van, nothing more, nothing less. Yesterday sold the chav wagon polo. Well it takes a lot of skill and judgement to look at any vehicle, let alone a van. i take it some head scratching was involved, not to mention the odd erm.... and ah... and Oh thats it! s I do at lot of that, looking at the Golf, but not working on it
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Post by axenige on Nov 7, 2008 20:14:17 GMT 1
Nothing yet, however had a good long chat with the guys at Hi-tech Automotive services, and they given me a few trade tips on what to do, to resolve this pressure lock issue with the injection system plus may have a few old spares in stock if I need some new parts ;D Plus has anyone got an injection system pressure tester ?
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Post by axenige on Nov 9, 2008 0:27:21 GMT 1
Today I've had another look at the car, firstly I stripped down the Bosch Metering head from Toughjeans (Steve), as I wanted too make sure it was O.K., I'm glad I did, as the unit has some corrosion inside due to water ingress or old fuel evaporation, which is a real shame as all the working parts of the unit itself, look to be brand new So next I started to inspect the unit supplied by Martin from volksworld, and unfortunately a similar story, the piston (which is the damage part on my one) is very badly scored up on one side near the top, so again I've decided to not use this one, as due to the damage it will effected the movement of the sensor plate on the air intake, which is the reason my car is not running at the moment. So I'm now looking at rebuilding my original Bosch metering head, by using the parts from Steve's one, as a rebuild kit.
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Post by steve66! on Nov 9, 2008 20:47:15 GMT 1
^^^^STOP £UCKING LOOKING
START £UCKING DOING!!!!!
i want a spin in it!
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Post by Toughjeans on Nov 9, 2008 21:54:27 GMT 1
Today I've had another look at the car, firstly I stripped down the Bosch Metering head from Toughjeans (Steve), as I wanted too make sure it was O.K., I'm glad I did, as [glow=red,2,300]the unit has some corrosion inside due to water ingress or old fuel evaporation[/glow], which is a real shame as all the working parts of the unit itself, look to be brand new So next I started to inspect the unit supplied by Martin from volksworld, and unfortunately a similar story, the piston (which is the damage part on my one) is very badly scored up on one side near the top, so again I've decided to not use this one, as due to the damage it will effected the movement of the sensor plate on the air intake, which is the reason my car is not running at the moment. So I'm now looking at rebuilding my original Bosch metering head, by using the parts from Steve's one, as a rebuild kit. that will be where its been lying in a bag outside
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Post by happycamper on Nov 9, 2008 22:39:13 GMT 1
sad but true i just learnt the basics of keeping my van alive- well a girl has to start somewhere . Most helpful thanks again mark i think i owe you and hazel a drink .cheers
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Post by Toughjeans on Nov 9, 2008 22:43:36 GMT 1
sounds ominus. what did you have to do? guessing no oil!!
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Post by happycamper on Nov 10, 2008 8:48:32 GMT 1
well ok the oil did need topping up a little!!- but i'm not completely hopeless . Just thought it was an good idea to know these things before my van became . So all is well!
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Post by axenige on Nov 10, 2008 19:33:06 GMT 1
that will be where its been lying in a bag outside No worries M8 ;D it wasn't a criticism of your storage methods I'm just glad I checked and did put it on the car as was ;D. However like I've said already it looks brand new, so I'm ether toying with the idea of rebuilding your unit or using the parts to rebuild my casting, and save me a lot of time cleaning off the rust, as the working parts of these units are ether Stainless or Sliver steel, ether way there's no corrosion damage on them. The cast iron, metering head body, is only given a coat of Zinc Phosphate anyway, this more than likely in the form of a Parkerizing treatment, this type of finish, is only rust resistant at the best of times.
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Post by muskrat on Nov 12, 2008 22:18:12 GMT 1
Nige we have fuel pressure testing kit at work with various connection fittings, if you can give me some ideas on what pipe fittings you have i can always borrow it.
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Post by axenige on Nov 12, 2008 23:01:43 GMT 1
Hopefully Jon I'll know a little more after this weekend. So far I've followed the instructions given too me by the guys at Hi-tech Services, luckily for me he's old enough to know how this system works . I'm going to try and get the Metering head sorted over the weekend, and then prime up the system to see if theres still a Hydraulic lock, I've also cleaned the Warm Up Regulars filter, as I've been told this can also cause the same symptoms, or at least make them worse. Again the Hi-tech guys said try this first, then if there's still an imbalance in the system, try a pressure test, to determine where in the system imbalance stems from. I'll have a word with them on Monday, if thats the case, and ask them where in the system you need to hook up the test kit. I think it has to run off the nearest main outlet which is next to the pressure relief valve on the Metering head.
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Post by axenige on Nov 12, 2008 23:24:58 GMT 1
^^^^STOP £UCKING LOOKING START £UCKING DOING!!!!! i want a spin in it! You'll get one M8 ;D Then you'll now why you did the more sensible thing and bought an 8v golf and not a 16v model instead.
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Post by muskrat on Nov 13, 2008 19:49:01 GMT 1
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Post by axenige on Nov 16, 2008 18:16:15 GMT 1
Right injection problems solved Having followed the advice from Hi-tech automotive services, I've manged to get the car running Now on to the next problem 1/ the timing, which I've set by ear, so the car will start and idle plus advance when revved. 2/ sort out the air fuel mixture issues, possible CO2 levels are all wrong now the car running on the right gasket set (I.E. far more airflow), as the car is hunting like mad at tick over, more of a rolling idle at a 1000 rpm, so possible indicating the mixtures to lean, and it also sounds like theres a major air leak in the system somewhere, going by the burbling exhaust note. So I've been around and checked all the unions on the fuel system, and next weekend hopefully, I'll have a chance too pop out the injectors and check that the seals are really tight, and not sucking in air with the fuel mixture. I'm still think that an injection system pressure test may not go a miss at some point, however that can wait for now. I'm more concerned about sorting out these other issues so that I can get the car on the road again.
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Post by chunky monkey in funky town on Nov 16, 2008 18:36:24 GMT 1
my bug has its winter look. standard 16in wheels, not impressed. roll on show season.
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Post by steve66! on Nov 16, 2008 23:33:33 GMT 1
JD that is sad mate. NIGE well done bro!
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Post by axenige on Nov 17, 2008 1:33:24 GMT 1
I'm not out of the woods yet Steve The system has gone out of calibration, why this has happen I don't know, however its something to do with cleaning the metering head this Spring time. As the system pressure has gone up, so maybe the metering head was cum-ed up with muck and old fuel residue. How do I know this has happened, well last week was the first time I've touched the car for months, for some Driver reason or other ;D, and I had to undo two of the fuel unions on the Warm Up regulator unit, as part of my instructions on how to fix the problem. To my surprise the system was still charge, I.E. just under operating pressure, as when the unions were released there was a fine spray of fuel from the joints. Now before I cleaned the metering head the system lost all pressure after about two weeks, and certainly would have not stayed fully charged for two months. ;D The increase of pressure has caused all my problems, however thats sorted, the problem is that now the system working better, its created New issues, the main one being that the piston in the metering head is closing fully against the CO2/idle adjuster, this didn't happen before. So in fact the piston is now lower than it was originally, this has two effects, it restricts the air and fuel flow at tick over. This is all down the CO2/idle screw having been turned all the way in at some point taking it beyond its normal operating hight. I've now got the Bosch work shop manuals and service instruction for the K and KE- Jetrionic systems, and what the Haynes doesn't tell you is the CO2 adjuster screw is really in fact the idle mixture screw, which also adjusts the CO2 level So I'll make a tool this week for that job, then back the screw out one full turn, and see if that enough, the only problem is this will effect the emissions for the MOT so it will all need to be setup again correctly using a exhaust gas analyzer to get it spot on. Then sort out my air vacuum leaks and finally timing
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Post by axenige on Nov 18, 2008 23:15:14 GMT 1
Among the many other jobs today, including seeing a rather grumpy Mr bus up the post office ;D, I did manage to make up my Idle screw tool using an old 4mm Socket with a 1/4 drive, and a 3mm Allen key from Poundland the two components have now been Brazed together to form an extra long reach socketed key, which is required to reach the idle screw mounted deep inside the Air flow sensor plate section of of the fuel distributor unit. P.S. Karl, I do understand, if I was just about to go to work for the day, at that time of the afternoon, 1/ if I ran into me, I would be in rather a hurry to leave 2/ and the thought of making Weetabix for a living, would also get me very mad, as that really takes the biscuit. ;D
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