Engine sealant in deep sump

[theanimalbus]

So after our deep sump decided to undo itself yesterday on the return leg from a Wicked Peppercorn weekend (recovered from thurrock services, saved petrol ;D )

Dropped the oil overnight, underneath it now,
4 bolts on the deep sump had completely undone and sitting in the bottom of deep sump

but more to the point, fairly large slithers of engine sealant sitting on the plate and in the deep sump

the sealant is soft, and in the 1000k miles since build i've not had any problems, is this anything to worry about ?

My mind says it must be ok "it's engine sealant" but i have to ask ?

What do you reckon ?

[Looby]

I'm afraid I have no clue about the mechanical issues...


...but gutted that you broke down on the way back from Peppercorn.

It's becoming a bit of a KUDC thing this season!!

Hope you get the problem sorted asap!

[fast65]

The only thing i would worry about if the sealant has been pumped around the engine, but if you have a filter on you should be fine change that and cut the old one in half to see if any did get sucked up

andy

[theanimalbus]

Jul 13, 2009 18:55:39 GMT 1 fast65 said:

The only thing i would worry about if the sealant has been pumped around the engine, but if you have a filter on you should be fine change that and cut the old one in half to see if any did get sucked up

andy

Yeah got a filter on and there were smaller bits on it but i'm 95% sure nothing got thru,

I would know by now would'nt i........... and if it did get thru, what am expecting.........reaction wise, i'm guessing mis-fire

Thanks for the imput dude

[Toughjeans]

i'm with fast65, should be ok i would guess, maybe a bit of thread lock on them bolts would'nt go a miss

[fast65]

If has got in the wrong place you most deffo find out your engine would stop EEEKKK seized AGGHHH when you have run the engine again keep a very close eye on the oil preasure if you have a gauge if it starts to rise STOP you will have blocked a gallery OOPs if its in the filter tho you should be fine

[theanimalbus]

I don't have a guage fitted, (might have one in garage somewhere)

I do have oil temp guage tho, and i am using part synth 15 40w, and i'm kinda thinking it has been warming up a little bit quicker than before the rebuild (used to use morris), but that could be all in my head............

I'm kinda missing the treacle

[axenige]

What type of of oil pick up does the oil pump have, if this is a float type with a mesh filter if so then be no problems, if not then the sealant could break up in to smaller pieces and get block as already mentioned. This is why its always a GOOD IDEA to use a torque wrench when refitting parts that can work undone ;D. Also how much oil did you lose when the sump pan worked lose?

[muskrat]

Hi Karl, Just a mention on the oil front, i was told never to use synthetic or semi synthetic oils in a air cooled engine but a good quality 10/40 or 30w mineral oil as a part of Vw Heritage engine warranty and also a recommendation by Air Cooled. As i said last night don't worry about bits of sealant in the engine it will break down over time and we do use it a lot at work and never had a problem, hope that put your mind at rest.

[steve66!]

muskrat thats good to know....
the sealant issue is quite scary....
I'm using duckhams 15/40 in mine now and its awesome, hayley was using castrol GTX 15/40 but more recently used my duckhams and its running sweeter now too!

[axenige]

Remember that these engine predate modern semi and fully synthetic oils, in older engine (pre WW2 based designs) I've always used traditional mineral oils, these are far better suited to VW air-cooled engines. However a good oil is very important, as explained before cheap motor oils can be partly or fully reclaimed oils, and thus have little or no long term lubrication properties.

Karl gave me some of his old "treacle" type engine oil, which I'm using for De-watering as part of a hot chemical blacking process, that I use for work, this oil we will code name "M" this has no heat dissipation properties whatsoever when heat is generated, the oil heats extremely rapidly to 200 degrease and is at vaporising point with 3 minutes from heating from room temperature. Which is all great and fine for me, but not much good for your air-cooled engine.